In consequence of representations from the Western Inland and Lock Navigation Company, and from a great number of citizens of Albany, Schenectady, Utica, and other places interested in the internal trade of the State, Commissioners were appointed by the Legislature to explore the country between the Lakes and the navigable waters of the Hudson, and to report upon the most eligible route for a water communication. It was suggested by those representations, as a point deserving of particular attention, that the commerce of the country was diverted in a great degree to Canada. The very able report of Mr. Secretary Gallatin, and the excellent speech of Col. Porter, on the facilitation of the means of communication by canals and roads, had awakened the public attention and excited the public solicitude to that all-important object. The resolution of the Legislature appointing Commissioners passed without opposition, the violence of party feelings having yielded to great considerations of national policy; and, as it fully explains the objects of the appointment, I shall give it at length:

"Whereas, the agricultural and commercial interests of this State require, that the inland navigation from Hudson’s river to Lake Ontario and Lake Erie be improved and completed on a scale commensurate to the great advantages derived from the accomplishment of that important object; and whereas, it is doubtful whether the resources of the Western Inland Lock Navigation Company are equal to such improvements, Therefore

"Resolved, (if the Honorable the Assembly concur herein), that Governeur Morris, Stephen Van Rensselaer, De Witt Clinton, Simeon De Witt, William North, Thomas Eddy, and Peter B. Porter, be and they are hereby appointed Commissioners for exploring the whole route, examining the present condition of the said navigation, and considering what further improvements ought to be made therein; that they be authorized to direct and procure such surveys as to them shall appear necessary and proper, in relation to the object, and that they report thereon to the Legislature at their next session, presenting a full view of the subjects referred to them, with their estimates and opinions thereon.

"And Whereas, numerous inhabitants of the counties of Oneida, Madison, and Onondaga, have by their petitions represented, that by reason of the spring freshets the Onondaga Lake is usually raised so high, as to inundate large tracts of land adjacent thereto, which are thereby rendered unfit for cultivation, and highly injurious to the health of the neighboring inhabitants, and that the said evils may be remedied by removing a bar and deepening the channel of the outlet of the said Lake, Therefore

"Resolved, (if the Honorable the Assembly concur herein), That the Commissioners above-named be and they are hereby directed to examine the subject of the said petitions, and to report to the Legislature their opinion as to the practicability, the expense, and the effects of removing the bar and deepening the channel at the outlet of the said Lake.

"By order,

"S. VISSCHER, Clerk.

In Assembly, March 15, 1810.

"Resolved, That this House do concur with the Honorable the Senate, in the preceding resolutions.

"J.V. INGEN, Clerk."

By the Supply Bill, $3,000 were appropriated to defraying the expenses of the Board of Commissioners.

Messrs. Morris, Porter, Eddy, and myself, met in New York, and agreed to meet the other Commissioners at Albany, on the second of July, in order to proceed to the execution of the duties assigned to us. Mr. Eddy was appointed Secretary and Treasurer of the Board, and directed to inform the absent Commissioners of this arrangement. We were anxious to avail ourselves of the professional knowledge of Mr. Latrobe; but this was strenuously opposed by Mr. Morris, and the Surveyor-General was authorized to employ such surveyor as he might think necessary.

On the 30^th of June, 1810, I left New York for Albany in the steamboat, in company with Mr. Eddy, his son, and Mr. Osgood’s son and nephew. A servant by the name of Thomas Smyth, whom I had engaged to attend me, and to whom I paid a month’s wages in advance, disappointed me, and in waiting for him I had nearly lost my passage. The weather was warm, and the boat crowded. We arrived at Albany before daylight on Monday morning, and put up at Gregory’s tavern.

A meeting of the Commissioners was held according to appointment, at the Surveyor-General’s office, and all were present except Col. Porter, who did not arrive until evening. It appeared that Mr. De Witt had engaged Mr. Geddes to attend us as surveyor from Utica. Morris and Van Rensselaer agreed to make the jaunt by land; the other Commissioners determined to proceed by water. Mr. Morris was to be accompanied by his wife, and Mr. Sharpless, a painter; and Mr. Van Rensselaer by his brother-in-law, Mr. Patterson. General North was to take boat with us at Utica.

We employed ourselves in laying up the necessary stores for our voyage, having previously drawn from the Treasury $1500, in favor of Mr. Eddy. A mattrass, blanket, and pillow, were purchased for each Commissioner; but we unfortunately neglected to provide ourselves with marquees and camp-stools, the want of which we sensibly experienced.

On the 3^d July, we set out in carriages for Schenectady, and put up at Powell’s Hotel. We found that Mr. Eddy had neglected to give directions about providing boats, and that Mr. Walton, the undertaker, who is extensively engaged in transporting commodities and merchandize up and down the river, had notice of our wishes only yesterday. He was very busy in making the requisite preparations. He had purchased a batteaux, and had hired another for our baggage. It being necessary to caulk and new paint the boats -- to erect an awning for our protection against the rain and sun, and to prepare a new set of sails, we had no very sanguine hope of gratifying our earnest desire to depart in the morning, although we exerted every nerve to effect it.

July 4^th. On consulting with Mr. Walton about our departure, he informed us that this being a day of great festivity, it would be almost impracticable to drag the men away. We saw some of them, and found them willing to embark as soon as the boats were ready, and we therefore pressed the workmen with great assiduity.

The true reason for this anxiety, was the dullness of the place. Imagine yourself in a large country village, without any particular acquaintance, and destitute of books, and you will appreciate our situation. Schenectady, although dignified with the name of a city, is a place of little business. It has a Bank, a College, and Court-house, and a considerable deal of trade is carried on through the Mohawk; and all the roads which pass to the westward on the banks of that river necessarily go through this place. A great portion of the crowd that visit the Mineral Springs at Ballston and Saratoga also visit Schenectady. With all these advantages it does not appear pleasing, and we endeavoured to fill up the gloomy interval between this time and our departure, by viewing the pageantry which generally attends this day.

There were two celebrations, and two sets of orators -- one by the city and one by the College. The feuds between the burghers of Oxford and Cambridge, and the students of those Universities, appear to be acted over here. In the procession of the students, we saw a Washington Benevolent Society, remarkable neither for numbers nor respectability. The President was a Scotchman, of the name of Murdoch, and certainly not a warm Whig during the war.

This place is known in history as the scene of a terrible massacre. On the 9^th of February, 1690, it was destroyed by a party of French and Indians from Canada, and its inhabitants murdered. It then contained a church and forty-three houses. Those that escaped would have perished in a violent snow-storm, had they not providentially met sleighs from Albany, which of course returned immediately with them. This account has reached us by tradition, and was given to us by Henry Glen, Esq., an old inhabitant.

On receiving information that our batteaux were ready, we embarked at 4 o’clock in the afternoon. Our boat was covered with a handsome awning and curtains, and well provided with seats. The Commissioners who embarked in it, were De Witt, Eddy, Porter, and myself; and the three young gentlemen before-mentioned also accompanied us. The Captain’s name was Thomas B. Clench, and we were provided with three men, Freeman, Van Ingen, and Van Slyck. In our consort, were the Captain, named Clark, three hands, three servants, and about a ton and a-half of baggage and provisions. We called, ludicrously at first, our vessel the Eddy, and the baggage-boat the Morris. What was jest became serious when our batteaux were painted at Utica, these names were doubly inscribed on the sterns in legible characters.

A crowd of people attended us at our embarkation, who gave us three parting cheers. The wind was fair, and with our handsome awning, flags flying, and large sail, followed by another boat, we made no disreputable appearance. We discovered that our mast was too high, and our boat being without much ballast, we were not calculated to encounter heavy and sudden gusts. These boats are not sufficiently safe for lake navigation, although they frequently venture. A boat went from this place to Missouri in six weeks. The river was uncommonly low. Goods to the value of $50,000 were detained in Walton’s warehouses, on account of the difficulty of transportation. After sailing a couple of miles, a bend of the river brought the wind in our faces. Our men took to their poles, and pushed us up against a rapid current with great dexterity, and great muscular exertion. The approach of evening, and the necessity of sending back to Schenectady for some things that were left, induced us to come to, for the night, at Willard’s tavern, on the south bank of the river, and three miles from the place of departure.

This tavern is in the 3^d ward of the city of Schenectady. In the election of 1809, the first after the establishment of the county, a great disproportion was discovered between the Senatorial and Assembly votes, which could not be accounted for on fair principles. A greater number of persons testified that they had voted for the Republican candidates, than there were ballots in the box; and there could not be the least doubt, but that Republican tickets had been taken from the box, and Federal ones substituted. This tavern was located as the scene of the fraud. The boxes were kept here one night, and, it is said, locked up in a bureau, left there for the express purpose, as it is supposed. The tavern-keeper and some other accomplices, perpetrated the atrocious deed. The present incumbent looks as if he were capable of any iniquity of the kind.

The south road leads in front of the house. While here, we had an opportunity of seeing the pernicious effects of these festivals, in the crowds of drunken, quarrelsome people, who passed by. Among other disgusting scenes, we saw several young men riding Jehu-like to the tavern, in a high state of intoxication, and their leader swinging his hat, and shouting. "Success to Federalism." A simple fellow handed me a handbill containing the arrangements for the procession, and was progressing in his familiarities with the rest of the company, when he was called off by the landlord, who, in a stern voice, said "Come away, Dickup;" and poor Dickup, alias thickhead, immediately obeyed.

July 5^th. We rose with the sun, expecting to start at that time, but we were detained by our Captain, who had gone to Schenectady, until nine o’clock. The high wind then subsided, and it had rained considerably in the night. In the rear of the house, we ascended a high and perpendicular hill, from whence we had a delightful view of Schenectady, and the flat lands forming the valley of the Mohawk.

The advertisements in the tavern indicated attention to manufactures. Two machines, for preparing and carding wool and cotton, were announced as ready for operation.

In the course of the day we passed three boats and a raft. The general run in going to Utica, and returning to Schenectady, is nine days. One of the boats was from Utica, and could carry ten tons.

We had with us Wright’s Map of the Mohawk, made from an actual survey at the expense of the Canal Company. This map exhibited the distances, the names of places, the rapids, rifts, and currents, with great accuracy, and was singularly useful.

Between fifteen and sixteen miles from Schenectady, we passed the first settlement made by Sir William Johnson, in this country. It is handsomely situated on the right bank of the river, and must have been selected by him on account of its vicinity to the Mohawk Castle. There is here, a handsome two-story brick house, which was recently owned by one Stanton. He had but two daughters, who were courted by a carpenter and a mason. He withheld his consent until they had erected this house. Like Jacob, they undertook the service; and the death of the old man has placed them in the building made by their hands.

In dried mullen stalks we discovered young bees in a chrysalis state, deposited there by the old ones, and used as a nest. We also saw, on the banks of the river, the shell of the common fresh water muscle.

About sixteen miles from Schenectady, we saw, on the left bank of the river, a curious specimen of Indian painting. On an elevated rock was painted a canoe, with seven warriors in it, to signify that they were proceeding on a war expedition. This was executed with red ochre, and has been there for upwards of a half a century.

We dined on board the boat, and, after a hard day’s work, arrived at Cook’s tavern, on the north side of the river, about 8 o’clock, P.M. The wind was violently adverse, the rapids frequent and impetuous. The Morris staid about a mile behind, which was no favorable indication.

Sir William Johnson had a son and two daughters by a German woman, with whom he cohabited. The son, Sir John, succeeded him in his title, and now resides in Canada. One of his daughters married Guy Johnson, the other Col. Claus, whose estates were confiscated. Sir William gave each of his sons-in-law a mile square on the river, and built for them spacious and, in that time, magnificent stone houses, with suitable out-buildings. Cook’s tavern was called Guy Park, and belonged to Guy Johnson. The place was sold by the Commissioners of Forfeitures, and is now owned by John V. Henry, Esq., of Albany, who rents it for $500 a-year. The house is well kept.

July 6^th. Started at 5 o’clock. About nineteen miles from Schenectady, passed the former seat of Sir William Johnson, on the north bank of the river. It is now used as a tavern. After he erected Johnson Hall, at Johnstown, and resided there, this house was occupied by his son. It is a large, double, two-story stone building, with two stone offices, and other elegant appurtenances. In those days it must have been considered a superb edifice.

After breakfasting at a log house, occupied by Mrs. Loucks, we preceeded on our voyage, and passed the mouth of Schoharie creek, which discharges itself on the left bank, about twenty-two and a half miles from Schenectady. A fort was erected here by Gov. Hunter, the friend and correspondent of Swift, and called Fort Hunter, after him. On the west side of the creek, there is a beautiful flat country, on which was situated the castle, or chief village, of the once powerful tribe of the Mohawks. There is a convenient bridge over the creek at this place.

We landed here at a fine spring, for a few moments; and in imagination I was carried back to the time, when this country was occupied by roving barbarians and savage beasts, when every trace of civilization and refinement was excluded. The chief employment and supreme delight of the savage was to slake his thirst at the spring, to gorge himself with flesh, and to plant the arrow in the bosom of his enemy. In course of time, he felt the power of the man of Europe. He struggled against his arts and his arms, and after the lapse of two centuries, he is banished from the country which contains the bones of his forefathers; and the powerful nation of the Mohawks, which formerly struck terror as far as the Mississippi, is now dwindled down into absolute insignificance.

On our way up we passed the Caughnawaga Village, which is about twenty-nine miles from Schenectady, and contains a church. It is pleasantly situated on the north side of the river. On the south side, opposite to one Dockstedder’s, a wooden pitchfork was thrown at our batteaux, from an elevated bank. It just passed over the boat, and if had struck it, might have killed a man. As it passed close to one of the hands, they felt a proper indignation, and immediately stopped the batteaux. The ruffians, who were making hay on the lowlands, scampered off, and left their rakes and forks to the mercy of the enraged boatmen, who took their revenge in breaking them.

We lodged this night at Dewandalaer’s tavern, thirty-four miles from Schenectady, in Palatine, on the north side of the river. This is a good although a small log house. We had four beds in one room, and although the cotton sheets, which are generally used in the country, were not so agreeable as linen, yet we passed a comfortable night. The landlord owns a farm of 600 acres, 180 of which are on the Mohawk flats. About twenty years ago it cost him $7.50 an acre. He had but twenty sheep. We saw peas, hemp, and flax, growing in one field on the lowlands. The flats must produce excellent hemp, but this profitable commodity is almost entirely neglected. The hard winter has proved nearly fatal to the wheat crop. Land on the bottoms can rarely be purchased; it is worth $100 per acre. This place formerly belonged to Major Fonda. His house was burnt by a party [of] Indians and Tories, during the last war, who came from Canada, and swept the country as low down as Tripe’s Hill. Near this place they were defeated by the militia. A short distance below De Wandalaer’s, you pass a remarkable rock called the Nose. The mountains here are high, and are like the Highlands of the Hudson on a small scale. The river must have burst a passage for itself. The opening of the mountains exhibits sublime scenery.

I saw at this house a pamphlet written by Cheetham, entitled, "The New Crisis, by an old Whig." This family are, it seems, connected with the Van Vechtens, of Albany, and the pamphlet was probably transmitted to be used as a powerful political engine.

7^th July. We commenced our journey at 5 o’clock; and in order to facilitate the passage of our batteaux over Kater’s Rapid, which extends a mile from this place, and which is among the worst in the river, we walked to the head of it. And here Mr. Eddy, who was complimented with the title of Commodore and the conduct of expedition, disburthened his pocket of a towel, which he had negligently put into it at the tavern where we slept, with particular injunctions to deliver it safely. This trifling incident excited some merriment; and we were happy to catch even at trifling incidents in order to beguile the time, which the slowness of our progress, the sameness of the scenery, and the warmth of the weather, began to make tedious.

In order to furnish as much amusement as possible, we put our books into a common stock, or rather into a trunk, and appointed one of the young gentlemen keeper of the library. The books, which were most extraordinary, were a treatise on Magic, by Quitman (this I purchased at Albany), and a pamphlet on Religion, by Mr. D.L. Dodge, a respectable merchant in New York, with an answer by a Clergyman, (these were furnished by Mr. Eddy). Quitman’s Treatise is a labored argument against Magicians, and to disprove their existence. Dodge’s work is principally levelled against war, breathes a fanatical spirit, and is completely refuted by the adversary’s pamphlet. As a specimen of his reasoning, take the following: --

"If a good man does not resist an assailant and submits to be killed, he will go to heaven. On the contrary, if he kills the assailant, he may probably send a soul to hell, which if spared, may be converted and saved to life everlasting."

Dodge’s pamphlet, weak as it is, has given him a great name among the Quakers; and, through their recommendation, he is now a trustee of the New York Free School.

We were not, however, without other amusements. A one-horse wagon, driven tandem, came up to Shephard’s tavern in great style, and formed an admirable burlesque of the fops of our cities who sport in that style.

Shephard’s house is thirty-nine miles from Schenectady, on the north side of the river, and close to Canajoharie bridge, which passes over the Mohawk. It is a large handsome house, dirty and unaccommodating, although much frequented. Here is a small village of two or three stores, two taverns, asheries for making pot and pearl ashes, and about eight houses. We relished our breakfast bur very indifferently. The swarms of flies which assailed the food, were very disgusting; and custards which were brought on the table, mal apropos exhibited the marks of that insect as a substitute for the grating of nutmeg.

At the distance of forty-two and a-half miles from Schenectady, passed Fort Plain on the south side and in Minden. It derives its name from a block-house which was formerly erected here. There is a church near it, and it is marked erroneously in Wright’s map, Canajoharie. An occurrence took place, near here, during the war, which excited much sensation among the superstitious. A Tory, from Canada, was apprehended and executed as a spy, in the army commanded by Gen. James Clinton. His friends were gratified with his body for interment; and when the company were assembling in a cellar-kitchen, a large black snake darted through the window, and ran under the coffin, and could not be found. This affair made a great noise, and the superstitious Germans interpreted it as an omen favorable to the Whig cause, considering the black snake as a devil, anxious to receive his victim, and anticipating a delightful sacrifice. A mile above Fort Plain, we passed under the third bridge, the Schenectady one included, and a mile above this bridge we passed the Lower Palatine church, on the north side of the river. The Higher Palatine church is a few miles higher up.

At half after one, and forty-five miles from Schenectady, we passed a boat which left Utica yesterday, at 12 o’clock; and five miles further, we overtook and passed a Durham boat, with a load of eight or ten tons, which left Schenectady on Tuesday for Utica. The Eddy can carry but three tons. We purchased a basket of eggs, at one shilling per dozen, and some fine butter, at fifteen cents per pound, also nine fishes taken by a spear, weighing from one pound to one and a-half each, and eighteen inches long, for four shillings altogether. We shot a fine bittern, and one of our men speared a large snapping-turtle. The wind became fair for a while; the air was cool, the country pleasant, and our epicures were anticipating a fine dinner on shore, when, to evince the fallacy of human wishes, lo! a black vapor, not larger than a man’s hand, appeared in the West, and in a short time magnified itself into a dark, portentous cloud, surcharged with electrical matter, and covering the western horizon. We were compelled to encounter the rain-storm by coming to, under the bank, with our curtains down, and in this situation we took our cold dinner and sipped our hot wine. After the rain, which continued until three o’clock, the thermometer stood at 81°. The thighs and fleshy parts of the turtle we caught, were filled with leeches. We pursued our voyage through a damp, disagreeable afternoon, and about evening arrived at Pardee’s Tavern in Manheim, on the west side of East Canada Creek. The town on the south side of the river is called Oppenheim. Pardee’s is fifty-one miles from Schenectady. He keeps a store and excellent tavern, also the Post-office. There is a bridge over the Canada Creek near his house, and the Mohawk and Schenectady turnpike run close by it. Here we met Jaspar Hopper and his family going to the Ballston Springs. The house was crowded in the evening, by militia on their way from a regimental inspection. They conducted themselves with great decorum. Mr. Pardee says that the expense of land and water transportation is about equal, but the former is to be preferred on account of its superior safety and convenience.

July 8^th, Tuesday. We continued our voyage at six o’clock, and arrived at the Little Falls at ten. It had rained the whole night, and the morning was introduced by the vocal music of the woods. Thousands of birds of different kinds had assembled in a grove near to Pardee’s, which they made to ring with their songs. The blackbird and the robin appeared to be the principal performers in this great concert of nature.

On our way, we were spoken to by James Cochran and brother in a phæton, and Francis A. Bloodgood and family in a coach, who informed us that our colleagues were waiting for us at Utica. We passed a loaded Durham boat in its descent from Utica, and fifty-six miles from Schenectady we passed the house of the gallant General Herkimer, who was mortally wounded at the battle of Oriskany, and who died here. His house is on the south side, and was protected by pickets during the war. This brave man is honored in the memory and affections of his country. A county, a town, and a village, are called after him. He was of German descent, and the ground where he received the fatal wound, was covered with the dead and dying of his gallant countrymen. From his house to the Little Falls, the water is deep and still.

This village is built upon rocks of granite -- contains about thirty or forty houses and stores, and a church, together with mills.

As you approach the falls, the river becomes narrow and deep, and you pass through immense rocks, principally of granite, interspersed with limestone. In various places you observe profound excavations in the rocks, worn by the agitation of pebbles in the fissures, and in some places, the river is not more than twenty yards wide. As you approach the western extremity of the hills, you will find them about half-a-mile from top to top, and at least, three hundred feet high. The rocks are composed of solid granite, and many of them are thirty or forty feet thick, and the whole mountain extends, at least, half-a mile from east to west. You see them piled on each other, like Ossa on Pelion; and in other places, huge fragments scattered about in different directions, indicating evidently a violent rupture of the waters through this place, as if they had been formerly dammed up, and had forced a passage through all intervening obstacles. In all directions you behold great rocks exhibiting rotundities, points, and cavities, as if worn by the violence of the waves or pushed from their former positions.

The general appearance of the Little Falls indicates the existence of a great lake above, connected with the Oneida Lake, and as the waters burst a passage here and receded, the flats above formed and composed several thousand acres of the richest lands. Rome being the highest point on the Lake, the passage of the waters on the east side left it bare, and the Oneida Lake gradually receded on the west side, and formed the great marsh or swamp now composing the head waters of Wood Creek. The whole appearance of the country, from the commencement of Wood Creek to its termination in the Oneida Lake, demonstrates the truth of this hypothesis. The westerly and northwesterly winds drive the sand towards Wood Creek, and you can distinctly perceive the continual alluvions increasing eastward by the accumulation of sand, and the formation of new ground. Near the Lake you observe sand without trees -- then, to the east, a few scattering trees, and as you progress in that direction, the woods thicken. In digging the canals in Wood Creek, pine-trees have been found twelve feet deep. The whole country, from the commencement to the termination of Wood Creek, bears the indications of made ground. An old boatman, several years ago, told Mr. De Witt, that he had been fifty years in that employ, and that the Oneida Lake had receded half-a-mile within his recollection. William Culbraith, one of the first settlers at Rome, was arrested, in digging a well, by a large tree which he found at the depth of twelve feet. This great Lake -- breaking down in the first place to the east, the place where its waters pressed the most, and then to the west, where its recession was gradual -- forms an object worthy of more inquiry than I had time or talent to afford. The Little Falls are the Highlands in miniature; and the Mohawk here, ought to be considered as the Hudson, forcing its way through the mightiest obstacles of nature. It being rainy the whole day and night, after breakfasting, we continued here until the next morning at four o’clock, when we continued our voyage.

The Mohawk and Schenectady turnpike passes through this place. It is in the town of Herkimer, and at the commencement of the locks, a line of division between the counties of Montgomery and Herkimer runs. The town of German Flatts is on the opposite side of the river, which is connected with this place by an excellent bridge.

The proprietors of this place were originally Fin and Ellis, Englishmen, who made their fortunes in this State and returned to their native country. The land now belongs to their heirs. They sent a clerk named John Porteus, a Scotchman, who resided here and took care of their concerns. He kept a store and mills. He had a daughter who is married to Wm. Alexander, the principal trader of this village. The lots are leased for ever at three dollars per annum, and are 60 by 120 feet. Alexander being the agent of the canal company, we had frequent interviews with him, and were not a little entertained with the bathos he attempted in his conversation.

The tavern here is kept by one Carr, and is a good one. We saw here the New York Spectator, and a federal paper called the American, printed in the village of Herkimer, by J. and H. Prentiss. I had the pleasure of seeing my friend J.C. Ludlow, Esq., on a tour to Quebec, accompanied by Joshua Pell and Augustus Sacket. They left New York on Tuesday last in the steamboat, and came from Albany in the mail stage. The Inland Lock Navigation Company was incorporated in 1792, and has a capital of $450,000, of which the State owns $92,000. They have five locks at the Little Falls, two at the German Flatts, and two at Rome, besides their works in Wood Creek.

All their improvements might now be done at less than half the original expense. General Schuyler, the original superintendent, was inexperienced. The locks at the Little Falls were originally built of wood, which rotting, stone was substituted; and those at Rome were made of brick, which not standing the frost, were replaced also by stone. There is a fine stone quarry a mile and a half from the Little Falls, of which the locks were made; and they were first built of wood from ignorance that the country contained the stone. The stones divide naturally as if done by tools. The wooden locks here put the Company to an unnecessary expense of 50,000 dollars -- 10,000 dollars a lock. An old church at the German Flatts was built of stone taken from that quarry, and yet this escaped the notice of the Company. The artificial bank of the canal was supported in the inside by a dry wall which cost 15,000 dollars. This is found worse than useless. It served as a sieve to carry off the water and to injure the banks, and it has become necessary to remove it. The bridges of the canal are so low that we were obliged to take down our awning.

In one year the income of the company was 16,000 dollars. This, after all expenses, would have afforded a dividend of 5 per cent. There never has been but one dividend of 3 ½ per cent. Alexander supposes that a million dollars worth of produce may pass down the canal annually, and as much up in goods. The toll is received at the Little Falls by Wm. Alexander, and at Rome by George Huntington.

The following amount of tolls received at the Little Falls was furnished us by Mr. Alexander: --

The rates of toll have been reduced since 1808, in order to meet the charges for transportation by land.

Two boats passed through the locks in our presence -- one a Durham boat from Ithaca with potash, part of which came from Owego. This boat draws when full loaded, 28 inches of water, and can carry 100 barrels of potash, or 240 of flour. It paid in lockage at Rome $16.50.

The mountain which forms the south-western extremity of the Falls is very elevated and called Fall Hill. A turnpike runs at its foot adjacent to the river. This mountain is the barometer of the Little Falls; if covered with fog in the morning, it invariably denotes a rainy day.

In entering from the east into the narrow part of the river at the Little Falls, we saw on the north side large holes dug, which we were told were made by money-seekers from Stone Arabia.

We saw excellent window-glass made in a factory in Oneida, and japanned and plain tin-ware is made for wholesale and retail in this place. The rainy weather induced me to procure thicker stockings; for a pair of coarse worsted I paid 11s., and for two pair of cotton half stockings, 6s. 6d. each.

9^th July. -- As before-mentioned we departed from the Little Falls at four o’clock, with an intention of reaching Utica, in which we succeeded, after a laborious day’s work, at ten o’clock at night.

We met two empty boats going down the Schenectady, which had been to Utica with goods; as the wind was favorable, they probably reached their place of destination this day. We breakfasted at the toll-keeper’s at the German Flatts, 64 miles from Schenectady.

The canal here is through the Flatts, a delightful body of low lands, which look like the flats of Esopus, and were first settled by the Palatines. The canal is 1 ¼ mile long, 24 feet wide, and 4 feet deep. The land through which it is cut cost the company 120 dollars an acre. It is furnished with a guard lock to prevent too great a flux of water. The embankments afford a delightful walk and the expense of cutting the canal could not exceed that of a good turnpike. A lock here cannot, with economy, be more than 6,000 dollars. The lock was filled in five minutes for our boat to pass. The canal here ought to have been extended further to the east, in order to have avoided another difficult rapid, and this could have been done at a trifling expense.

The village of German Flatts is a small place on the south side of the river and near the toll-house. The first Indian treaty, after the peace, was made at it. It contains a stone house which was picketted during the war and was called Fort Herkimer. The stone church was also used as a fort during that period, and the loop-holes for seeing through are still visible.

A bridge crosses the river 65 miles from Schenectady, and leads to the village of Herkimer, a flourishing place. The river is narrow at this place, and the West Canada Creek from the north falls into it, on the east side of the bridge.

We dined on the south side of the river about 71 ½ miles from Schenectady, in the open air, at a saw and carding-mill owned by a Mr. Meyer; 74 miles from Schenectady we passed under a new bridge, and a mile further we saw the commencement of Cosby’s manor. This may be considered the commencement of a new country; the hills retreat from the river, the land grows better, the river narrows, and beach and sugar maple supply the place of willow bushes which cover the banks below. About 79 miles on the south side, there was a tree 60 feet high with an umbrella top, and two-thirds of the elevation without branches. It is said to be an unique in this country, and to be visited by strangers who do not know what it is. Mr. De Witt and Col. Porter went out of the boat to examine it; the distance of its branches prevented them from determining its kind, but they supposed it to be the Cucumber-tree, which is rarely seen on the east side of the Genesee River.

Wild or Indian Hemp was in great plenty on the branches of the river, also a beautiful wild flower, whose botanical name is Ocsis, and of which there are six different kinds in the western country.

There is also abundance of Mandrake or Wild-lemon, a delicious fruit as large as a Love-apple. Its leaves are large, and it is about a foot or eighteen inches high. It is plant, not a shrub.

Morris and Van Rensselaer having pre-occupied Baggs’ tavern, where we intended to quarter, we put up at Billinger’s tavern in Utica.

July 10^th. -- The Board met, all present, and adjourned to meet at Rome on the 12^th instant.

Utica is a flourishing village on the south side of the Mohawk; it arrogates to itself being the capital of the Western District. Twenty-two years ago there was but one house; there are now three hundred, a Presbyterian Church, an Episcopal, a Welch Presbyterian, and a Welch Baptist; a Bank, being a branch of the Manhattan Company, a Post Office, the office of the Clerk of the County, and the Clerk of the Supreme Court. By the census now taking, it contains 1,650 inhabitants. Two newspapers are printed here.

The situation of the place is on low ground, a great part of which is natural meadow. It derives its importance from its situation on the Mohawk, the Seneca turnpike which communicates with the heart of the Western country, and the Mohawk and Schenectady turnpike, which leads to Schenectady on the north side of the Mohawk, independently of a good free road on the south side.

Produce is carried by land from Utica to Albany for 8s. per 100 lbs.; by water to Schenectady, for 6s. When the Canal Company reduced the toll, the wagoners reduced their price, in order to support the competition. Country people owe merchants, and pay their debts by conveyances of this kind, and in times when their teams are not much wanted for other purposes.

Utica bears every external indication of prosperity. Some of the houses are uncommonly elegant; the stores are numerous and well replenished with merchandize. The price of building lots is extravagantly high. Lots, correspondent to double lots in New York, sell here from four to eight hundred dollars. The Bleecker family own 1200 acres in the village and its vicinity, and by at first refusing to sell, and by leasing out at extravagant rates, they greatly injured the growth of the place. They seem now to have embraced a more liberal policy. They have made a turnpike of two miles, and a bridge over the Mohawk, to carry the traveling through their estate; and they have opened streets for sale. They recently sold 2 ½ acres at auction, for $9,000. The land was divided into 25 lots, fifty by one hundred feet. Judge Cooper of this place brought, about ten years ago, 15 acres for $1,500, which would now sell for $20,000.

The capital of the Manhattan Bank is $100,000. The building is improperly situated close by stables, and is much exposed to fire. In consequence of the trade with Canada, specie is continually accumulating here. It affords a great facility for the transmission of money to and from New York. A small Bank in Connecticut, named the Bridgeport Bank, of which Doctor Bronson is President, discounts notes here through a private agent. Having made an arrangement with the Merchants’ Bank of New York, to take its notes, they became in good credit, and had an extensive circulation. As the Branch did not receive their notes in payment, they were constantly accumulating a balance against the institution. With a view to meet this evil, and to turn the tables on the adversary institution, the Branch now take the Bridgeport notes. I found that it is projected by the Directors to increase the stock of the Bank to $500,000; to distribute it in the village, and to maintain its dependence upon, and connection with, the Manhattan Company, in order to prevent it from becoming a federal institution.

The town of Whitestown contains, besides Utica, two considerable villages, West Hartford and Whitesborough. This district of country has twenty-two lawyers.

I met here Bishop Moore, on a diocesan visitation to confirm the members of his Church. Also, Col. Curtenius. Dined at Mr. Kip’s, who lives in handsome style, and who received us with great hospitality.

July 11^th. Morris and Van Rensselaer were to travel by land as before; here we met Gen. North and the Surveyor. We proceeded by land to Whitesborough, four miles from Utica, and there we divided, some of the company continuing to go by land and others taking to the boats.

Two miles from Utica we visited a famous cheese-maker, named Abraham Bradbury, an English Quaker. He has rented a farm of 163 acres, for $500 per annum. He keeps thirty-six cows, and makes upwards of 400 cheeses a-year. Besides the cheese, the milk will support a great number of hogs. He is assisted by his wife and two sisters. His cheese is equal to the best English cheese that is imported, and he vends it for 1s. 3d. per pound. Notwithstanding his high rent, he clears upwards of $1,000 a-year by his establishment.

On Sauquoit Creek, a mile from Whitesborough, there is a large manufacturing establishment for spinning cotton. The works go by water. It is owned by a Company, and is denominated the Oneida Manufacturing Society. The stock is said to be profitable, and to be forty per cent. above par. It employs forty hands, chiefly young girls, who have an unhealthy appearance. It is on Arkwright’s plan, and contains 384 spindles on six frames.

Whitesborough contains the Court-House, and is a handsome village. Several lawyers reside here on account of the Court-House. The federal candidate for Governor has a handsome house. Eight miles from Utica we passed Oriskany, where Herkimer’s battle was fought.

We arrived at Rome for dinner, and put up at Isaac Lee’s house, which is large double three-story frame building, called the Hotel. He rents it and ten acres of land from Dominick Lynch, for $250 a-year.

Rome is on the highest land between Lake Ontario and the Hudson, at Troy. It is 390 feet above the latter; sixteen miles by land and twenty-one by water from Utica, and 106 miles by water from Schenectady. It is situated at the head of the Mohawk River and Wood Creek, that river running east and the Wood Creek west. You see no hills or mountains in its vicinity; a plain extends from it on all sides. It has a Court-House, a State Arsenal, a Presbyterian Church, and about seventy houses. Its excellent position on the Canal, which unites the Eastern and Western waters, and its natural communication with the rich counties on Black River, would render it a place of great importance, superior to Utica, if fair play had been given to its advantages. But its rising prosperity has been checked by the policy of its principal proprietor. When he first began to dispose of his lots, he asked what he called a fine of £30, and an annual rent of £7 10s., for each lot for ever. His subsequent conduct has been correspondent with this unfavorable indication, and has given Utica a start which Rome can never retrieve.

Two lots, sixty-six by 200 feet, sell from $200 to $250. Wild land in the vicinity sells from $10 to $12.50 per acre, and improved land for $25. A Company was incorporated the last session of the Legislature, for manufacturing iron and glass, and half the stock is already filled up. The place has a Post Office and four lawyers. Rome being on a perfect level, we naturally ask from what has it derived its name? Where are its seven hills? Has it been named out of compliment to Lynch, who is a Roman Catholic?

Rome was laid out into a town, after the Canal was made or contemplated. It derives its principal advantages from this communication. Independent of the general rise it has given to Lynch’s property, it has drained a large swamp for him near the village, which would otherwise have been useless; and yet he demanded from the Company, at first, $7,000, and at last, $5,000 for his land, through the Canal was to pass. The appraisers gave him but nominal damages -- one dollar.

The Canal at Rome is 1 ¾ miles long; 32 feet wide at top, and from 2 ½ to 3 feet deep. The locks are 73 feet long and 12 wide; 10 feet lift on the Mohawk, and 8 feet on Wood Creek.

July 12^th. The Commissioners had a meeting here; all present. Adjourned to meet in Geneva. At this meeting the Senior Commissioner was for breaking down the mound of Lake Erie, and letting the waters to follow the level of the country, so as to form a sloop navigation with the Hudson, and without any aid from any other water.

The site of Fort Stanwix or Fort Schuyler is in this village. It contains about two acres, and is a regular fortification, with four bastions and a deep ditch. The position is important in protecting the passage between the lakes and the Mohawk river. It is now in ruins, and partly demolished by Lynch, its proprietor. Since the Revolutionary War a block-house was erected here by the State, and is now demolished. About a half mile below the Fort, on the meadows, are the remains of an old fort, called Fort William; and about a mile west of Rome, near where the Wood Creek enters the Canal, there was a regular fort, called Fort Newport. Wood Creek is here so narrow that you can step over it.

Fort Stanwix is celebrated in the history of the Revolutionary War, for a regular siege which it stood. And as this and the battle of Oriskany are talked of all over the country, and are not embodied at large in history, I shall give an account of them, before they are lost in the memory of tradition.

After having dined on a salmon, caught at Fish Creek, about eight miles from Rome, we departed in our boats on the descending waters of the Wood Creek. And as we have now got rid of the Eastern waters, it may be proper to make some remarks on the Mohawk River.

This river is about 120 miles in length, from Rome to the Hudson. Its course is from west to east. The commencement of its navigation is at Schenectady. It is in all places sufficiently wide for sloop navigation; but the various shoals, currents, rifts, and rapids with which it abounds, and which are very perspicuously laid down on Wright’s map, render the navigation difficult even for batteaux. The Canal Company have endeavoured, by dams and other expedients, to deepen the river and improve the navigation, but they have only encountered unnecessary expense; the next freshet or rise of the river has either swept away their erections or changed the current. Mr. Weston, the engineer, from a view of the multifarious difficulties attendant on such operations, proposed to make a canal from Schoharie Creek to Schenectady, on the south side of the river; he only erred in not embracing the whole route of the Mohawk. The valley formed by that river is admirably calculated for a canal. The expense of digging it will not exceed that of a good turnpike. The river is good only as a feeder.

The young willows which line the banks of the river, and which are the first trees that spring up on alluviums, show the continual change of ground. No land can be more fertile than the flats of this extensive valley. The settlements here were originally made by migrations from Holland and Germany. The grants under the Dutch Governor were from given points on the Mohawk, embracing all the land south or north, meaning thereby to include only the interval land, and deeming the upland as nothing. Chief-Justice Yates said, that he recollected a witness to state in Court that he had travelled from Kinderhook to Albany and found no land.

The Mohawk is barren of fish. It formerly contained great plenty of trout -- it now has none. The largest fish is the pike, which have been caught weighing fourteen pounds. Since the canal at Rome, chubb, a species of dace, have come through into the Mohawk through Wood Creek, and are said to be plenty. A salmon and black bass have also been speared in this river, which came into it through the canal. It would not be a little singular if the Hudson should be supplied with salmon through that channel. The falls of the Cohoes oppose a great impediment to the passage of fish, but the Hudson is like the Mohawk, a very sterile river in that respect.

We saw great numbers of bitterns, blackbirds, robins, and bank swallows, which perforate the banks of the river. Also, some wood-ducks, gulls, sheldrakes, bob-linklins, king-birds, crows, kildares, small snipe, woodpeckers, woodcock, wrens, yellow birds, phebes, blue jays, high-holes, pigeons, thrushes, and larks. We also saw several king-fishers, which denote the presence of fish. We shot several bitterns, the same as found on the salt marsh. The only shell fish were the snapping turtle and muscle.

We left Rome after dinner -- five commissioners, the surveyor, and a young gentleman. Morris and Van Rensselaer were to go by land and meet us at Geneva.

We went this day as far as Gilbert’s Tavern on the north side of the creek, six and a-half miles by water, and four and a-half miles by land, from Rome.

We saw a bright red-bird about the size of a blue-bird. Its wings were tipped with black, and the bird uncommonly beautiful. It appeared to me to have no song, and no one present seemed to know its name. I saw but three besides in the whole course of my tour, one on the Ridge Road west of the Genesee River. It is, therefore, a rara avis.

On the banks of the creek were plenty of beneset, the Canada shrub, said to be useful in medicine, and a great variety of beautiful flowering plants. Wild gooseberry bushes, wild currants, and wild hops were also to be seen. The gooseberries were not good; the hops are said to be as good as the domestic ones. In the long weeds and thick underwood we were at first apprehensive of rattlesnakes, of which we were told there are three kinds -- the large and the small, and the dark rattlesnake. But neither here nor in any part of our tour did we see this venomous reptile. The only animals we saw on this stream were the black squirrel and the hare, as it is called in Albany, a creature white in winter, of the rabbit kind, although much larger.

About a mile from the head of the creek we passed a small stream, from the south, called Black or Mud Creek. Above Gilbert’s the Company have erected four wooden locks, which are absolutely necessary, at a small expense, when compared with their stone locks at the Little Falls, which cost $500. The Company have also shortened the distance on the whole route of the creek about four miles, the whole distance being about 28 miles, by cutting canals to meet the serpentine bend of the stream. It is susceptible of being shortened, so as to make only sixteen miles. The State reserved a thousand acres on the south side, from Gilbert’s down to the Oneida Lake, to be applied to the improvement of the navigation. This land is overrun by squatters. From some causes which cannot be satisfactorily explained unless connected with our mission, the stock of this Company can now be bought for $200 a share -- the nominal value is $250.

We passed, on the north side of the creek, the appearance of an old fortification, called Fort Bull. The remains of an old dam, to impede the passage of a hostile fleet, and to assist the operations of the fort, were also to be seen. Although there is now a road on that side of the creek, yet in those days there could have been no marching by land with an army. The transportation of provisions must have been impracticable by land; and, indeed, the general appearance of the country exhibits a sunken morass or swamp, overgrown with timber and formed by the retreat of the lake.

Gilbert’s house is a decent comfortable house, considering the little resort of travelers. The grounds around it are overflown by the creek, and the situation unhealthy. He had procured fresh salmon from Fish creek for us, at 6d. a lb. We found it excellent. In the neighborhood of Gilbert’s there is said to be good bog ore; we saw specimens furnished by a man who had come to explore the country for that purpose.

We rose early in the morning, and breakfasted at the Oak-Orchard, six miles from Gilbert’s on the south side of the river. The ground was miry, and in stepping into the boat, my foot slipped, and I was partly immersed in the creek. The captain assisted me in getting out. The dampness of the weather, and the sun being hardly risen, induced me, for greater precaution, to change my clothes. This trifling incident was afterwards magnified by the papers into a serious affair.

Near Gilbert’s, the Canada Creek comes in from the north side, a mile west the Rocky or Black Creek, from the south. At Oak-Orchard the first rapid commences; as the creek was extremely low, we requested the locks to be left open above, two or three house before we started. This furnished us with a flood of water, and accelerated our descent. We found, however, that we went faster than the water, and frequently had to wait. The creek was almost the whole distance choked with logs, and crooked beyond belief; in some places after bending in the most serpentine direction for a mile, it would return just below the point of departure. From Wright’s survey, the distance --

We stopped at Smith’s, a German, who lives on the south side of the creek, and about eight miles from the Oneida Lake. The creek is sandy, and very winding from this place, -- the sand, accumulated at such a distance from the lake, demonstrates the truth of my theory respecting the formation of the ground from Rome to the lake. Smith is not forty years of age, and has been settled here fifteen years. He has six daughters, five of whom are married; two sons, twenty-five grand-children, and one great-grand-child, who almost all reside in his vicinity. The female part of his descendents were assembled to rake his hay; their children were brought with them, and the whole exhibited a picture of rural manners and rude industry, not unpleasing.

About six miles from the lake we saw the remains of a batteaux, sunk by the British on their retreat from the siege of Fort Stanwix.

Four miles from the lake we dined at one Babbits’, on the north side of the creek. We found, on such occasions, our own provisions and liquors, and were only provided with house-room and fire for cooking. The family were obliging and simple. They had been forewarned of our approach, and their attention was turned towards the contemplated canal. As they are the proprietors of the soil, which was purchased from General Hamilton, they were apprehensive that the canal would be diverted from them, and pass through Camden, and the old lady said she would charge us nothing, if we straitened the creek and lowered the lake. The only potable water here is from the creek, which is very bad, and no other can be procured, as the creek is on a level with the surrounding country. The family furnished us with tolerable vinegar, made of maple juice. The old lady, on being interrogated as to the religion she professed, said that she belonged to the church, but what church she could not tell. The oracle of the family was a deformed, hump-backed young man, called John. On all occasions his opinions were as decisive as the responses of the sybil; and he reminded us of the Arabian Night’s Entertainment, which represents persons hump-backed as possessed of great shrewdness. John told us a story of Irish Peggy, a girl whom he described as going down in a batteaux, so handsome and well-dressed that she attracted him and all the young men in the neighborhood, who visited the charming creature; that on her return some weeks afterwards, she looked as ugly as she had been before beautiful, and was addicted to swearing and drunkenness; that she had been indirectly the cause of the death of three men; that one of them, a negro, was drowned in a lock, who had gone to sleep on the deck of the boat, in order to accommodate her and her paramour; that another fell overboard, when she had retired with her gallant, and prevented by it assistance that might have saved him; and that the third one experienced a similar fate. The commodore did not fail to extract a moral from John’s story, favorable to the cause of good morals; and admonished him to beware of the lewd woman, "whose house is the way to hell, going down to the chambers of death."

A boat passed us at this house, which speared a salmon with a boat-hook in passing under a bridge. The frequent passage of boats, and the shallowness of the waters, terrify the salmon from ascending in great numbers above this place.

We passed James Dean’s old house on the right, about two miles from the lake. He first went among the Oneidas as a silversmith, vending trinkets. He afterwards acted as an interpreter, and coaxed them out of large tracts of land. He is now rich, a Judge of Oneida county, has been a member of Assembly, and is a prominent Federalist.

Fish Creek enters Wood Creek, a mile from the lake, on the north side. It is much larger and deeper, and derives its name from the excellent fish with which it abounds, up to the Falls, which are ten miles from its mouth. It is frequented by great numbers of salmon; and we saw Indians with their spears at work after that fish, and met two canoes going on the same business, with their pine knots and apparatus ready for the attack. The Indians have reserved the land on each side of this creek, in order to secure themselves the benefit of fishing.

The confluence of these streams makes a considerable river from this place to the Oneida Lake, deep, wide, and gloomy, and resembled the fabled Avernus. You can see the track of its black and muddy waters a considerable distance in the great basin into which it discharges.

We arrived at Mrs. Jackson’s tavern, at seven o’clock, near the mouth of Wood Creek, which enters Oneida Lake from the north-east. To the west, the eye was lost in the expanse of waters, there being no limits to the horizon. A western wind gently agitated the surface of the waters. A number of canoes darting through the lake after fish in a dark night, with lighted flambeaux of pine knots fixed on elevated iron frames, made a very picturesque and pleasing exhibition. We walked on the beach, composed of the finest sand, like the shores of the ocean, and covered with a few straggling trees. Here we met with an Indian canoe, filled with eels, salmon, and monstrous cat-fish. In another place we saw the native of the woods cooking his fish and eating his meal on the beach. We could not resist the temptation of the cold bath. On returning to the house, we found an excellent supper prepared; the principal dish was salmon, dressed in various ways.

The salmon come into this lake in May, and continue till winter. They are said to eat nothing. This is the season of their excellence. They formerly sold for one shilling a-piece; now the current price is sixpence a pound. The salmon are annoyed by an insect called a tick, and run up into the cold spring brooks for relief.

Near this tavern there are to be seen the marks of an old fortification, covering about one-eighth of an acre, and called the Royal Block-House. In this place, Col. Porter and the young gentlemen made a tent of the sails and setting poles, and, with the aid of a fire and our mattrasses, had a good night’s lodging. The other Commissioners slept in the house; the window panes were out and the doors open. The resort of Indians and the sandy ground had drawn together a crowd of fleas, which, with the musquitoes, annoyed us beyond sufferance the whole night. Some of the family sat up late; the creakings of a crazy old building and the noise of voices, added to our other annoyances, completely deprived us of rest. The house was in other respects a comfortable one. The ice, which we used to correct the badness of the creek water, had a pleasant effect.

We found here a new species of mullen, with a white bushy top of flowers. Sometimes the top was yellow. The common mullen was also plenty.

July 14^th. Although the wind on this lake is generally easterly in the morning and westerly in the afternoon, yet we had no other resource than our oars. At the entrance of the Wood Creek, and about fifty rods from its mouth, we found a sand-bar forty rods wide. The shallowest part was two feet deep, and the channel between three and four feet.

The Oneida Creek comes in on the south side of the lake. At its mouth it is about as large as Wood Creek, and as you ascend one-third larger. There are no bars at its mouth. The salmon go up as far as Stockbridge. This Creek, Wood Creek, and Canaseragas Creek, are the principal sources which supply the Oneida Lake. According to the general computation, this lake is thirty miles long, but it does not exceed twenty miles in length, and from five to eight in breadth. In winter it freezes, and is passable in sleighs.

The waters of the lake were saturated with small dark atoms, which render them unsalubrious, and when drank, operate emetically, and product fever. This, in the language of the boatmen, is termed the lake blossom. Whether it arises from the farina of the chestnut, or any other trees that blossom about this time, the eggs of insects, or collections of aminalculæ, we could not determine. We examined the water by a microscope, and could come to no conclusion. If I were to give an opinion, it would be, that it is not an animal substance, but small atoms swept into the lake by the waters of Wood Creek, from the vegetable putrefactions generated in the swamps and marshes through which that stream runs.

Independently of several collections of sand and reeds, which can hardly be termed islands, and of an islet about the middle of the lake, which has a single tree, and looks at a distance like a ship under sail, there are two islands, about two miles from the outlet, half a mile from the south shore of the lake. They are within a short distance from each other. One island contains fourteen acres, and the other, called Frenchman’s Island, twenty-seven acres. A person can wade from one to the other; and bears, in swimming the lake, frequently stop here to rest. These islands belong to the State.

One of the islands is called the Frenchman’s Island, from a person of that nation, who took possession of it about fifteen years ago, with a beautiful wife. He resided there until the cold weather came, and then he wintered in Albany, Rome, or Rotterdam. He had a handsome collection of books, musical instruments, and all the appendages of former opulence and refinement. He was apparently discontented and depressed -- cultivated a handsome garden with his own hands, and sowed half-an-acre of wheat, which had a beautiful appearance. His wife bore him children here, and altogether he had three. He became by practice a very expert fowler, hunter, and angler, and was a hard-worker. He lived here seven summers. He spent a winter at the Oneida Castle, and sent his clothes for washing sometimes to Albany. When he first came, he had a considerable sum of money, and, becoming poor, he sold some of his books for subsistence, and he bartered some valuable ones to Major Dezeng for two cows. He was very proud and reserved -- went at last bare-headed, and the general suspicion was, that jealousy was the cause of his seclusion. They visited their neighbor Stevens, at the outlet, twice a-year. We were told by Mrs. Stevens, that his name was Divity or Devitzy; that his countrymen in Albany made a subscription, which enabled him to go to France, with his family; that she returned the visits of the family, and found them apparently happy; and that in her opinion, the French-woman had no extraordinary pretensions to beauty.

We stopped at a house on the north side of the lake, in the town of Bengal. The proprietor bought sixty-six acres from J. Munro, for four dollars an acre. The family were eagerly engaged in the salmon fishing, and they told us that they sometimes caught with the seine one hundred per day; that fifteen fill a large barrel, for which they ask twelve dollars in salt. They also informed us that shad recently came up the lake. The salmon frequently weighs twenty pounds. The black or Oswego bass is a fine fish, sometimes weighing eight pounds, and is like our black fish, but harder.

As we approached Rotterdam, we saw a seine drawn at the mouth of a small cold brook, and six salmon caught at a haul. A kingfisher, as large as a hawk, was also flying about for prey. We amused ourselves on our voyage over the lake, by trolling with a hook and bait of red cloth and white feathers, and caught several Oswego bass, yellow perch, and pikes.

We dined at Rotterdam, a decayed settlement of George Sinba’s, eleven miles from the outlet, containing eight or ten houses, and exhibiting marks of a premature growth. There are mills on a small creek, and while at dinner, our men speared several fish in it -- among others, one eighteen inches long, spotted, the head like a cat-fish, and downwards resembling an eel, but like a dog-fish in shape. Some called it an eel-pout, and others a curse. It appears to be a nondescript.

Sinba’s agent, Mr. Dundass, was absent at Salina. We were well received by his house-keeper, and dined on chowder, prepared by Gen. North. The thermometer here was at 75°. We were told that fleas infest all new settlements for the first two years, particularly in pine or sandy countries, and that we must not expect to escape them. Our Commodore appeared old and decayed, although there were two older men among the Commissioners. Supporting himself on a stick, he attracted the attention of an old man, seventy years of age, in the log-house this morning, who rose from his seat and said, "Old daddy, shall I hand you a chair?" We were happy to see our chief revive under the potent influence of port and chowder.

After dinner we continued our voyage with an adverse wind. As the evening shades prevailed, we were saluted with the melancholy notes of the loon. We passed three boats under sail going up the lake.

This night we slept at Stevens’s, at the outlet of the lake, nine miles by land and eleven by water from Rotterdam. Here commences Onondaga or Oneida river, the only outlet of the lake, about as large as the mouth of Wood Creek. The bars at the outlet are rocky, wide, difficult to remove, and so shallow that a horse can easily pass over them. There are two eel weirs here, in which many are caught. Stevens has lived in this place, which is in the town of Constantia, eighteen years; has rented if for seventeen years at $75 a-year. He has no neighbors within four miles on this side of the river. On the other side is the town of Cicero, in which there are several settlements. This is a clean house, in which we were as well accommodated as the situation of the country would admit.

There is a small island at the mouth of the river, containing six acres, and belonging to the State, for sale.

Several Onondaga Indians were here. Numerous boats, traversing the river at night for salmon, and illuminated with fine flambeaux, made a brilliant appearance. A curious fungus or excrescence of the pine, with thirty rings, denoting thirty years’ growth, was shown here. It is used for bitters and is very scarce. Black raspberries grow wild in great abundance. They composed, with fresh salmon, the principal part of our supper.

Stevens’s is twelve miles from Salina by land, and thirty-two by water. The salt used in the country is brought the latter way, and is purchased at the springs for 2s. or 1s. 6d. per bushel.

Land in Cicero or Cato, is worth from three to five dollars per acre. Stevens told us that they had no other preacher than Mr. Shepherd, who lived over the river in Cicero; that he formerly resided in Goshen, and got three military lots as captain or major of artificers, although not legally entitled to them, -- that Judge Thompson, a member of the Senate, and of Orange county, received one lot as a fee for his services in getting the law passed.

Stevens’s house is one quarter of a mile from the mouth of the lake. Deer come close up to it. We saw an adder and another snake sunning themselves on the ramparts of Fort Brewster, in the rear of the house. This was erected in the French War, was a regular work, ditch and bastions, all covering about an acre. This must have been an important pass to defend, and would now be an excellent site for a town. It belongs to Chancellor Lansing, who asks fifteen dollars an acre.

On Sunday, about five weeks back from this day, a terrible tornado was felt at this place, about sundown. The wind was south-west and attended with rain. It had nearly unroofed the house, passed over Camillus, the salt springs, was felt at Rome about nine o’clock, and proceeded down the Mohawk.

The following questions are worthy of consideration, in reference to lowering the outlet of the lake: --

1. May it not lower or drain off the waters of Wood Creek?

2. May not the draining of the land render the country more unhealthy than at present?

July 15^th. Sunday. The surveyor being employed in taking the level of the outlet, we did not get out until eleven o’clock. Our object was to reach Three-River Point this day. The distance by land is seven, and by water, eighteen and three-quarter miles. The whole length of the outlet is, then, nineteen miles. In width it varies from forty to one hundred yards. The banks are low, and covered on both sides with nut, oak, and maple, and beach trees, denoting the richest land.

Four miles from Stevens’s, Comeroy Creek enters the river, on the south side. For a considerable distance below there is shallow water with a stony bottom, rapid current and rift, more difficult that the one at the outlet, making a fall of three-and-a-half feet.

On our way down, I saw several large flocks of ducks and two large eagles. Col. Porter shot one of them on the wing -- he was alive, and measured eight feet from the extremity of one wing to the other. He was a bald eagle; his talons were formidable; head and tail white. At Three-River Point he beat off several dogs in a pitched battle.

After having dined aboard, near one Vickery’s whose house was will filled with Lyons’ speeches, we proceeded, and passed the grave of a drowned Frenchman, who once shot a panther when in the attitude of leaping at him, nine feet and eleven inches long. The head is now in Walton’s store, at Schenectady.

Before sundown we reached Three-River Point. This place derives its name from the confluence of the Oneida and Seneca Rivers, and the river formed by this junction, is then denominated Oswego River. It lies in Cicero, on the south side of the Oneida River, is part of a Gospel lot, and an excellent position for a town. All the salt-boats from the Springs, and the boats from the Cayuga and Seneca Lakes, rendezvous at this place, and we found the house, which is kept by one Magie, crowded with noisy drunken people, and the landlord, wife, and son were in the same situation. The house being small and dirty, we took refuge in a room in which were two beds and a weaver’s loom, a beaufet and dressers for tea utensils, and furniture, and there we had a very uncomfortable collation.

Col. Porter erected his tent and made his fire on the hill, where he was comfortably accommodated with the young gentlemen. I reconnoitered up stairs; but in passing to the bed, I saw several dirty, villainous-looking fellows in their bunks, and all placed in the same garret. I retreated from the disgusting scene, and left Gen. North, Mr. De Witt, and Mr. Geddes, in the undisputed possession of the Attic beds. The Commodore and I took possession of the beds below; but previous to this, we were assured by an apparently decent girl, that they were free from vermin, and that the beds above were well stored with them. Satisfied with this assurance, we prepared ourselves for a comfortable sleep, after a fatiguing day. But no sooner were we lodged, than our noses were assailed by a thousand villainous smells, meeting our olfactory nerves in all directions, the most potent exhalation arising from boiled pork, which was left close to our heads. Our ears were invaded by a commingled noise of drunken people in an adjacent room, of crickets in the hearth, of rats in the walls, of dogs under the beds, by the whizzing of musquitoes about our heads, and the flying of bats about the room. The women in the house were continually pushing open the door, and pacing the room for plates, and knives, and spoons; and the dogs would avail themselves of such opportunities to come in under our beds. Under these circumstances sleep was impracticable; and, after the family had retired to rest, we heard our companions above rolling about restless in their beds. This we set down to the credit of the bugs, and we hugged ourselves on our superior comforts. We were, however, soon driven up by the annoyance of vermin. On lighting a candle and examining the beds, we found that we had been assailed by an army of bed-bugs, aided by a body of light infantry in the shape of fleas, and a regiment of musquito cavalry. I retreated from the disgusting scene and immediately dressed myself, and took refuge in a segar.

Leaving the Commodore to his meditations, I went out on the Point. The moon was in its full orb and blaze of unclouded majesty. Here my feelings were not only relieved, but my mind was elevated by the scenery before me. The ground on which I stood was elevated; below me flowed the Oneida River, and on my left the Seneca poured its waters, and uniting together they formed a majestic stream. Flocks of white geese were sporting on the water -- a number of boats lying moored to the banks -- a white tent erected on the right, enlivened by a blazing fire -- an Indian hut on the opposite bank, displaying the red man of the forest, and his family, preparing for the sports of the day -- the bellowing of thousands of frogs in the waters, and the roaring of bloodhounds, in pursuit of deer and foxes, added to the singularity of the scene. My mind became tranquillized, and I availed myself of a vacant mattrass in the tent, and enjoyed a comfortable sleep of two hours.

The next day, Gen. North and myself found bed-bugs on our persons. As this is the most frequent and formidable enemy to sleep that we encountered, it may not be amiss to state, that a flannel shirt is said to be a good protection against them, and that camphor, put under your pillow, is represented to be more efficacious.

Salina is thirteen miles by water from this place. In the neighboring town of Camillus, a quarry of gypsum has been discovered, of the grey kind, and said to be very good. A Company, called the Onondaga Gypsum Company, has been established to work it.

July 16^th. We left this disagreeable place as soon as light would permit, and gave it the name of BUG BAY, which it will probably long retain.

Three-River Rapid commences about two miles from the Point. Here we saw salt-boats below the rapid, which unloaded half their cargoes in order to get over it, -- also rafts from the Cayuga Lake, which had been detained four weeks, by the lowness of the water. The rafts intended to form a junction at Oswego, and to proceed over Lake Ontario, and thence down the St. Lawrence to Quebec. It is supposed they will bring $20,000 at that place. The attempt is extremely hazardous. Below the rapids, there was an encampment of Onondaga Indians; some of their canoes were composed of Elm Bark.

Two or three miles farther we passed a rapid, called the Horse-Shoe Rapid. The Oswego River is about twenty-four miles long. The fall from Three-River Point to Oswego, is about 112 feet. It contains a great many rapids, which I shall specify. Considering that it is constituted by the Oneida and Seneca Rivers, which proceed from the Oneida, the Onondaga, the Cayuga, the Seneca, the Canandaigua, the Oswego and the Skeneatelas Lakes, it is surprising that it is not larger. It is about the width of the Mohawk, and appears like that river reversed. The river scenery is delightful. The large and luxuriant trees on its banks form an agreeable shade, and indicate great fertility.

After proceeding seven miles, we breakfasted at a fine cool brook on the north side, and at the foot of Horse-Shoe Rapid. Our breakfast consisted of common bread, Oswego bread and biscuit, coffee and tea, without milk, butter, perch, salmon, and Oswego bass; fried pork, ham, boiled pork and Bologna sausages, old and new cheese, wood-duck, teal and dipper. Some of these, luxuries as they may appear on paper, were procured by our guns and fishing tackle, on our descent. We saw plenty of wild ducks, some wild pigeons and partridges, some of which we shot. We were also successful in trolling for fish. The crane, the fish-hawk, the king-fisher, and the bald-eagle, we saw, but no bitterns on the descending river. At this place we tasted the wild cucumber, the root of which is white and pleasant, with a spicy, pleasant taste. Why it is called the cucumber is not easy to imagine, as there is no point of resemblance.

In a smart shower we arrived at the celebrated Falls of Oswego, twelve miles from Three-River Point, and twelve miles from Oswego. There is a carrying-place of a mile here, the upper and lower landing being that distance apart. At both landings there were about 15,000 barrels of salt, containing five bushels each, and each bushel weighing fifty-six pounds. It is supposed that the same quantity has already been carried down, making altogether 30,000 barrels. The carriage at this place is one shilling for each barrel. Loaded boats cannot with safety descend the Falls, but light boats may, notwithstanding the descent is twelve feet, and the roaring of the troubled waves among great rocks is really terrific. Pilots conduct the boats over for one dollar each; and being perfectly acquainted with the Falls, no accidents are known to happen, although the least miss step would dash the vessels to atoms. The Falls are composed of high rocks, apparently granite. The ascent by boat is impracticable.

On the south side of the river is Hannibal, in Onondaga, and on the north side, Fredericksburgh, in Oneida County. The State has reserved forty acres at the Falls, on the north side, which Joshua Forman has leased for eighteen years, and has erected a saw and grist-mill, by which he has blocked up the ancient carrying-place, that did not exceed one hundred yards. He is the proprietor of the adjacent land, on both sides of the river. There are a few houses at the carrying-place, and an excellent quarry of free-stone, between the two landings. A little below the Upper Falls, a ravine, the ancient bed of a creek, appears, which falls in just below the Lower. Here a canal might be easily cut round the Falls.

We left our squadron above the Upper falls, and hired a boat to conduct us to Oswego, from the lower landing. The wind was adverse, and the weather showery, but the descent was so favorable that we progressed with great rapidity. The river downwards is full of rapids, which shall notice, and the banks precipitous and rocky. We dined at L. Van Volkenburgh’s tavern, two miles on our way, and on the north side. This situation is very pleasant; two islands opposite the house. On our way we saw fragments of the rafts before-mentioned, at different places all along the river.

A strong rapid, eight miles from Oswego, is called by the boatmen Braddock’s Rift, by a misnomer. It ought to be denominated Bradstreet’s. At the foot of this rapid, there is an island of ten acres, called Bradstreet’s island, where, our pilot told us, he was defeated by the Indians, who attacked him from each side of the river. The island is in the center, and the river narrow. Here tradition is contradictory to history.

We passed a number of salt-boats. The commerce in salt is great between Oswego and the Falls. As we approached the former place the country bore marks of cultivation; the banks became more elevated, the current increased in force, and the rapids in number. About seven miles from Oswego we encountered a rapid called Smooth Rock Rapid. Six and a-half miles, the Devil’s Horn; six miles, the Six-Mile Rift; then the Little Smooth Rock Rapid, the Devil’s Warping Bars; four miles, the Devil’s Horse Race; and one mile from Oswego, the Oswego Rift, a violent rapid, nearly as bad as the Oswego Falls, having a fall of at least five feet.

We arrived at Oswego at seven P.M., and put up at a tolerable tavern, kept by E. Parsons, called Colonel. He was second in command in Shay’s insurrection, and formerly kept an inn in Manlius-Square. He was once selected as foreman of the Grand Jury of Onondaga County. He appears to be a civil man of moderate intellect; determined, however, to be in opposition to government, he is now an ardent Federalist. He gives two hundred dollars rent for an indifferent house. Another innkeeper gives three hundred for a house not much superior; and this little place already contains three taverns.

July 17^th. Oswego is a place celebrated in our colonial history as one of the great depôts of the fur trade. It was strenuously contended for by the French and English, in their American wars. During the Revolutionary contest is was occupied by the British, who held it in defiance of the treaty of peace, until it was delivered up under Jay’s treaty. As an important post, commanding the communication between the lakes and the waters that communicate with the Hudson, it must ever claim the attention of Government.

It is situated on the south side of the Oswego River, near its entrance into Lake Ontario, in latitude 43° 27’ 52", as ascertained by the Surveyor-General , in 1797, with great exactness, when he laid out a town here. The State reserved No. 1, in the military township of Hannibal, as public property. The streets are laid out one hundred feet wide, and their course is determined astronomically, north-west and south-east, 22° 12’, and northeast and southwest, 67° 48’. Those running parallel with the river are denominated First, Second, Third, &c., and the streets intersecting them are called after the signs of the Zodiac.

The blocks are 396 feet long, and 200 feet wide. It is contemplated by the plan, to have a fish-market, and a common market on the river. Ground is reserved for a public square of fourteen acres, for an Academy, a Prison, Court-house, and Cemetery.

The houses are not built on this plan, and are huddled together in a confused manner. There are at present fourteen houses, six log-houses, six warehouses, and five stores, and five wharves, covered with barrels of salt, at which were four square-rigged vessels. A Post-office, Custom-house, three physicians; no Church, or lawyer.

The salt trade seems to be the chief business of this place. There was a brig on the stocks. There belong here eleven vessels, from eighty-two to fifteen tons, the whole tonnage amounting to 413. To Genesee River, one of twenty-two tons; to Niagara, two -- one of fifty, and one of eighty-five, making 135 tons; to Oswegatchie, two, of fifty tons each; to Kingston, in Upper Canada, eight, from ninety to twenty-eight tons; and to York, two, of forty tons each, all engaged in the Lake trade.

In 1807, 17,078 barrels of salt were shipped from this place. In 1808, upwards of 19,000, and 3,000 were not carried away for want of vessels. In 1809, 28,840 barrels were sent directly to Canada, and this year it will exceed 30,000. Salt now sells at Kingston, at $4.50 per barrel, and at Pittsburgh at from $8.50 to $9.

A barrel of salt at Oswego costs $2.50 in cash; and at Salina $2, probably $1.50. By a law of the State salt cannot be sold by the State lessees for more than 62 cents per bushel.

The conveyance of a barrel of salt from Salina to the Upper Falls of Oswego is, in time of good water, two shillings -- in low water, three shillings. The same price is asked from the Lower Falls to Oswego.

The distance from Oswego to Niagara is 160 miles. It takes a fortnight to go up and return. The vessels carry from 170 to 440 casks, and the conveyance of a cask costs fifty cents. The lake can be navigated six and a half months in the year. The wages of a common sailor are $20 per month. If the inland navigation was perfected, salt could be conveyed to Albany for three shillings per bushel. Two-thirds of the salt that is exported from Oswego, is consumed on the Ohio.

Two men of the name of Alvord, in partnership, manufacture 4,000 barrels of salt at Salina, annually, which have been sold at Pittsburgh for $10 per barrel, until recently. The Collector says that the value of property exported from Oswego in 1808, amounted to near $536,000. In the time of the embargo, the value of property carried out of a district was known. None of this went directly to Canada. In 1807, it was $167,000 more. Upper Canada is supplied with teas and East India goods through this place. The press of business is in spring and fall. In winter this is a place of no business, and all the stores are shut up. Now two of their merchants intend to carry on trade in the winter. There is no fur trade. The value of the carrying trade from Oswego Falls here, last year, amounted to $40,000.

Sturgeon have been caught in the lake that weigh 100 pounds. The Muscalunga, a very fine fish of the pickerel kind, is sometimes got of 45 pounds weight. The white fish, a very delicious fish, is also had here in the fall. Salmon have been caught at Van Valkenburgh’s, in the open part of the river, in every month of the year. They sometimes weigh 37 pounds. The boats frighten them away, and as they are very shy, they are not so numerous as formerly. In the spring of the year they are in the best order. Big Salmon Creek is their favorite haunt. There are two kinds of bass in the river -- black, or Oswego bass, and rock bass. They differ in shape. The salmon pass Oswego in April, in great numbers, and are caught at that time. In September and October, when they return to the lake, they are again caught; but at this season none are to be procured.

In Oswego and Seneca Rivers, and I think in Oneida River, considerable circular collections or piles of gravel are to be found, in the water near the shore, and sometimes on the margin of the water. Many are to be seen at very short distances, and they are evidently the work of some animal, exhibiting uniformity and design. As they appear the latter end of June, or beginning of July, when there are no freshets, and when the salmon and bass ascend, it is supposed they are erected by fish. By some they are called bass-heaps, and by others they are imputed to lamprey eels.

The river at Oswego is twelve chains wide. All the lake rivers have bars at their mouths. The bar in this river is eight and a half feet deep, the channel is about two rods wide, and the mouth of the bar is about 150 feet. Where the river enters the lake its course is to be traced by the blackness of its waters. The lake water is green, transparent, and fit to drink.

In walking on the banks of the lake, we should have thought ourselves on the shores of the Atlantic, were we not stepping on immense piles of granite and schistic, which defend the land against the inroads of the water. The eye is lost in the immensity of the waters. Ontario is as large as the Caspian. It never freezes throughout. Its length varies from 120 to 180 miles, and its breadth is about 60. It has been observed that the lake diminishes; and this is attributed by some to the removal of the obstructions, bars and rocks, at the outlet. We saw a brig from Kingston enter the port with a fine north-easterly wind. Here is a brig of the United States, mounting 16 guns, and one thirty-two pounder, which was driven on the beach last winter by the ice. As soon as the British heard of the building of this vessel they immediately built a thirty gun brig, in order to have a superiority on the lake.

On the south-west side of the river, and on the banks of the lake, are the ruins of an old French fort, with ditches and bastions, and stone buildings in ruin, which were probably magazines. The side bounded by the lake is level, and not ditched, so that unless it was defended here by wooden erections, it was only intended to protect against attacks from the land. This fort has covered near four or five acres. There is a burying-ground near, and a few head-stones. The only inscribed has the following: -- "Roger Cor Bert, 1742."

Quere. -- May not there have been an ancient Indian fort, adjacent to the French fort? Appearances may warrant this surmise.

The French had another fort to the south of this some distance, and not far from the lake.

In the village, commencing at Parson’s tavern, the seat of the contemplated Fish Market, and extending between three and four hundred yards up on the river, are to be observed the remains of old Dutch trading houses. The stone foundations yet remain even with the ground. The doors opened inside, and there was another tier of houses in the rear, forming an oblong square. The whole was intended as a safe depository for goods, and to keep off the Indians.

Fort Oswego is on the north side of the lake. Its latitude, as astronomically determined, is 43° 28’ 5". It was erected by the English, and abandoned as a garrison by the government, about ten years ago, and is now little better than a heap of ruins. The State have reserved a mile square, including the fort, for such works of defence as may be necessary. It is a regular fort, and has been strong. It had bastions, ditch, palisadoes, and bomb-proof castle. It covered, with all its appendages, about ten acres, and the interior contained three. The barracks are pulled down or burnt. The stone with which this work was erected was taken from the French forts and Dutch houses at Oswego, where the Dutch had erected stone houses for trading, and from whence they were expelled by the French. On one of the stones in the dry mason work of the fort, is "1711," supposed to be taken from a Dutch house. Another stone, cut in two, from the half letters it probably had "1727." On another is inscribed "St. Hyde -- Clarke, Serjeant 3^d Regt., 1742." On another, "Robert Hutton, 1742;" on another, "1741;" on another, "A.L. 1742;" another, "1749." There are two stones reversed: on one is inscribed, "Rosiol Thomas, the black Dane, 1742;" and on the other, "A.H. Philips, 1761." These inscriptions being reversed, show that they were cut before the stones were put in the walls.

Near the fort, a large stone was dug, two feet under ground, marked "Nicholas Schuyler, Esq., 21 August," the year effaced. This the collector, Joel Burt, Esq., has on the outside of his chimney back.

When the Indians are interred, their guns, kettles, and wampum are buried with them. An Indian grave was dug up on the banks of the lake a few days ago; the bones were in a high state of preservation. His wampum and kettle were found with him, but no gun. This interment must have taken place seventy years ago.

Grind-stones are procured here, and answer very well, called Oswego grind-stones. I found a curious pumice stone on the lake shore, like a wasp’s nest, and as if perforated by that insect.

The first house erected here since the evacuation by the British, was built by Mr. Joel Burt, of Orange county, who has been settled here seven years. He has six sons here, with families, and none have experienced any considerable sickness. He had not a single neighbor. He had to go forty miles to mill, and 100 for provisions. He has considerable land in this country, and intends to augment by purchasing No. 6 in Hannibal, which runs back of the village, and which he believes can be procured for six dollars per acre, from one Cunningham, in Orange. One of his sons is Collector and Post-master. We saw in the post office, several County Columbians, and the Guardian, of Upper Canada, printed at Niagara, by one Woolwich.

The embargo enriched the frontier settlements, and the impediments to a free intercourse with Canada became very unpopular. In this place there was a combination to resist the execution of the embargo laws. The Collector was menaced, and his life jeopardized; and he is now harassed with suits for refusing clearances for vessels to go to Sackett’s Harbor, with potash, &c.

The owner of a wharf, of the name of Wentworth, announces to the public that he shall charge no wharfage for vessels that load at his wharf, but that others coming to it must pay -- the one nearest the wharf fifty cents per day; the one next, twenty-five; the third, twelve and one-half, and the fourth, six and one-fourth. One hour to be considered a day.

At this place we saw a Yankee, whom we had before seen at Three-River Point, exploring the country for land. He journeyed on foot, appeared to be acute, and was not a little forward. He expressed an anxiety to travel with us, and said he had bargained for No. 6 Camillus, at three dollars an acre. He was particularly anxious about the title. His whole behavior was characteristic, and he no doubt intended to squat on the first choice land he could select, belonging to the State. As a contrast to the Yankee, we saw a Frenchman, his wife, and children, and another Frenchman on his voyage from Niagara to Montreal, in a small boat, twice the size of a common canoe. He was a mason and cooper, and on the look out for better times. He had been three an a half days on his way here. His blankets were sails; two of his three boys rowed; he coasted along the lake. He had four chairs, a kettle, pans, &c., three or four barrels, two dogs, a fishing spear, and iron frame for pine lights, a crab net, fishing lines and gun. With these accommodations he provided for his large family -- the whole exhibiting poverty, filth, and happiness. With his blankets and sails, he had, in consequence of high winds, encamped here for a day or two.

At Parson’s house there was a girl making straw hats. She could make one worth six dollars in nine days. In various places people make their own hats of coarse straw.

We were informed here that five hundred American wood-cutters had gone over to Canada to cut wood, and that after they had completed their operations, their timber and staves were seized by two persons to whom the King’s right had been sold by the Government. A reservation of all pines for the use of the King is contained in his patents or grants. The general opinion was that the King was entitled to none, except such as were marked "G.R." by his surveyor.

Mr. Kibbie, a salt merchant, informed us that salt works were erected on the Great Kenhaway, seventy miles from Pittsburgh, which would undersell us at that place, for seven dollars a barrel. On subsequent inquiry, we had reason to suppose that this was a false alarm, raised for speculating purposes; that the Kenhaway navigation is almost impracticable; and that the water is of a very inferior quality, and the salt works, if any, on a very limited scale.

The Surveyor-General injured one of the bones of his arm in a fall; and this very unpleasant accident, which we were fearful would deprive us of the benefit and pleasure of his company, at first threw us into a gloom. But in the course of the day he was greatly relieved by medical aid, particularly by the application of opodeldoc. Our Surveyor is fond of poetry and botany, and in other respects a man well-informed, considering his opportunities; of considerable sagacity, well-behaved, and a very clever fellow. The commodore’s son was unfortunately deaf from his infancy. He has read a great deal; his memory is tenacious, his mind not discriminating, and his temper bad. There is no other way of communicating with him but by signs or writing.

July 18^th. We left Oswego in the morning, and in order to facilitate the passage of the boat over the worst rapids, we walked on the south side of the river five miles, to Pease’s Tavern, where we took a collation. During the walk, Mr. Geddes showed us the place of the canal and locks, as proposed by him. We dined, and put up for the night at Van Valkenburgh’s Tavern. About four miles from this tavern north, there is a new beaver dam, inhabited by beavers. I regret that we had not heard of this in time, as I should have undoubtedly visited this singular building. There is also an excellent trout stream near this house.

This must have been the night of the great frost, which destroyed so much corn in the western country. We rose at three o’clock, and found it cold, although we walked three miles to the Upper Falls. The Commodore had a quarrel with the landlord, who wanted to extort four shillings too much for carrying our baggage to the Upper Falls. The landlord was appointed a Justice last winter, and says he does not thank the Council for it; because he says he is a Republican. He pertinaciously insisted on his charge, and said, "What odds does it make to you -- the State pays for it!"

We embarked, after this important dispute was accommodated, in our own boats, at five o’clock, and breakfasted after going two miles, at the widow Van Waggoner’s, on the north side. On the south side, and half-a-mile from the Upper Falls, there is a fine lake for fishing, two miles long and one broad, called Fish Lake.

During our absence there was a ball at the Upper Falls, and one of the boatmen broke it up by cutting off a dog’s tail, and letting the animal loose among the young women, whose clothes it besmeared with blood. This exhibits a picture of barbarous manners that would hardly be practised at Kamschatka.

When we arrived at the foot of Three-River Rift, we got out on the south side, and walked to the head of the rapid. We passed in our walk an Indian encampment, of four families. There was a babe naked in a blanket; another fastened to a board; and an Indian boy of some size destitute of clothes. Between two divisions of the dwelling, and in the center, there was a fire to accommodate each department, if it may be so called. Venison and fish of different kinds were hung for drying or roasting. Indian girls were making wampum, and the men actively employed on the river spearing fish.

We arrived at Three-River Point at three o’clock, and found all the family sober. Most of them were sick with the dysentery, although the house was comparatively clean and decent. The Captain says that he as seen Ann, the girl of the house, drink three glasses of whiskey, successively, although the commodore was so much pleased with her that he gave her a dollar. We had a hearty laugh at our Federal friends, when we understood that Magie is a violent Federalist, and probably will soon establish a Washington Benevolent Society.

The commodore insisted upon chowder for dinner. This detention, and the consequent dilution of port, in a very hot afternoon, detained us till five o’clock, and exposed us to great danger in traversing the waters of the Seneca at night.

There is a rapid near the confluence, called Ganseris Rift; beyond this the river is deep and black, apparently without a current until you arrive at Jack’s Rift. The banks are low and covered with wood. This river is nearly as wide as the Mohawk. On the approach of night it has a very unpleasant smell, and fever seems to hover over you. It looks like the Valley of the Shadow of Death, to borrow an idea from Gen. North. There is no house until you progress seven miles, to the cold spring on the right bank, where there is a log dwelling, and a cooper’s shop for supplying Salina with salt barrels. A mile farther, the outlet of the Onondaga Lake falls into the river, on the left side. It is said there are muscles here as large as clams.